Mortgage Calculator
Monthly payment + amortization with PMI / tax / insurance
Amortization schedule (yearly summary)
| Year | Principal | Interest | Balance |
|---|---|---|---|
Educational tool, not financial advice. Actual monthly cost depends on credit score, escrow analysis, PMI quote, and current rates — get a formal pre-approval from a lender before committing.
About Mortgage Calculator
What goes into a real mortgage payment
Mortgage shoppers often see a low "monthly payment" number on a listing and assume it covers everything. It doesn't. A real monthly payment in the US is PITI: Principal, Interest, Taxes, Insurance. Some buyers also have PMI (private mortgage insurance) and HOA fees on top. This calculator shows the real number.
The PITI components
- Principal (P): The portion of each payment that reduces the loan balance. Starts small (most of an early payment is interest) and grows over time.
- Interest (I): What the bank charges for the loan. Calculated on the remaining balance, so it shrinks as you pay down.
- Taxes (T): Property tax, prorated monthly. Average across the US is ~1.1% of home value annually, but ranges from 0.3% (Hawaii) to 2.5%+ (New Jersey, Illinois).
- Insurance (I): Homeowners insurance (HOI), required by every lender. Typically $80–$200/month depending on home value and location.
Plus the often-forgotten parts
- PMI (private mortgage insurance): Required when you put down less than 20%. Adds 0.3–1.5% of the loan amount annually. Falls off automatically when you reach 22% equity, or you can request removal at 20%.
- HOA fees: Condos and planned communities. Can range from $50 to $1000+/month — get the actual figure from the seller before you make an offer.
- Closing costs: 2–5% of the home price, paid once at closing. Not in the monthly but they affect what house you can actually buy.
What this calculator does
- Computes the true PITI with PMI and (optionally) HOA — not just "principal + interest."
- Generates a full amortization table showing the principal/interest split for every month and the balance over time.
- 15-year vs 30-year comparison so you can see exactly what the shorter term saves you in interest (often $100,000+ on a typical home).
- Extra-payment what-ifs: add $200/month to principal, see the payoff date pulled in by 4–7 years and tens of thousands of dollars in interest saved.
- PMI auto-drop logic: the amortization table shows PMI ending the month you cross 22% equity.
- All math happens in your browser. Inputs aren't saved to any server.
Common decisions this helps with
- Affordability check. A bank will pre-approve you for "X dollars"; the calculator shows the actual monthly burden including escrow, which is usually 20–30% higher than the advertised principal-and-interest figure.
- 15 vs 30. A 15-year mortgage has a higher monthly payment but builds equity twice as fast and saves enormous interest. The trade-off is liquidity.
- Pay extra or invest the difference? The mortgage rate is your guaranteed savings if you pay down debt; compare to an expected-return calculation on the investment alternative.
- PMI vs putting down 20%. If you can put down 20%, the calculator shows the monthly savings. If you can't, PMI is annoying but eventually drops off — not a permanent tax.
Frequently asked questions
Principal + Interest + Taxes + Insurance. The four components of a complete monthly mortgage payment in the US. Lenders use PITI (not just principal-and-interest) when computing your debt-to-income ratio for approval, and you should too when budgeting.
No. Homeowners insurance (HOI) protects your house from fire, theft, storms. Private Mortgage Insurance (PMI) protects the *lender* if you default — it's extra cost the borrower pays when they put less than 20% down. PMI typically runs 0.3–1.5% of the loan annually and ends automatically at 22% equity.
Conventional wisdom is 20% to avoid PMI. But putting down less and keeping cash reserves for emergencies and investment is often the better long-term move, especially when mortgage rates are below historical equity-market returns. Run the numbers both ways.
The 15-year always saves more interest (typically $80k–$150k on a $400k home). The 30-year always has a lower monthly payment (typically $400–$700 less). Take the 30-year if cash-flow flexibility matters; take the 15-year if you have stable income, a healthy emergency fund, and want to be done with the mortgage faster. You can also get a 30 and make extra payments to mimic a 15 — gives you the option to back off if income drops.
On a typical $400k 30-year mortgage at 7%, an extra $200/month pays off the loan in ~22 years instead of 30 and saves roughly $90,000 in interest. The amortization table shows this exactly for your numbers.
No — it assumes a fixed-rate, fully-amortizing loan, which is what 90%+ of US mortgages are. For ARM or interest-only, use a specialised tool — the math diverges meaningfully at the rate-reset point.
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